Eometric, the professional pattern-making method created by Estanislao, shows us why taking the customer as the base of design is the best system to obtain optimal results.
Estanislao began his career as a fashion designer by transforming pieces of clothing into garments that he later gave to friends. This did not go unnoticed, and soon he was invited to present his first collection in 1986, which attracted the attention of the local press. Within 5 years, his creations were sold in more than 60 stores. He was also selected for the Biennal of Barcelona as one of the best European creators under thirty.
In his workshop, he continued perfecting his style, expanding his collections, gaining new clients and consolidated a reputation for innovation and quality. At the same time, Estanislao reinforced one of the common characteristics of his work: made-to-measure tailored garments that fit his customers like a glove.
Deconstruction and creation of a method
With the arrival of the crisis, to survive, the workshop had to streamline, and by this point, Estanislao lost his passion for sewing. That is when he decided to take a break for learning. Having started as self-taught, he was not sure if his techniques were correct, or if there were any aspects that could improve.
After studying in different schools, he realized that most methods taught at that time had been created to produce for commercial sized patterns, but nothing existed for special configurations. Most methods gave opaque guidelines for working on the basis of a stereotyped body, which failed when faced with a real size body.
Through this experience, Estanislao realized that, first, it was necessary to explain the reason for each of the steps taken, and second, the perfect pattern base does not exist, as each person has their own unique pattern. This is the key of Eometric.
Based on his knowledge, he wrote and documented his own method and developed tools for taking measurements that, in combination with a table of calculations, accurately reproduce the client’s body volume. He started workshops for professional patternmakers to learn his method for designing and fabricating real clothes for real bodies. A customer-centered design, rather than one for a generic, stereotypical body.
The customer at the beginning and the end
The first step of his method obviously starts with the customer. With the help of tools designed by himself, he takes measurements accurately, obtaining an exact replica of the client’s body, regardless of their proportions. Subsequently, these measurements and calculations are transferred, to draw a paper pattern pertaining to the anatomical lines of the body.
One of the most important conclusions that Estanislao reached during his academic training is that different methods are not needed for different types of garments. While the traditional methods start from a medium size to later scale it to the body, Eometric does not work with sizes. It analyzes each part of the anatomy individually, as a puzzle, and starts from scratch with the taking of accurate measurements, saving time and resources. From here, anything can be designed for any body shape or size. Eometric is like body cloning.
Secondly, with the help of a mannequin where the anatomical lines are marked as a grid, he can transform the base pattern to design the shape of the garment. To do this, he uses Eometric Design Tape to draw the design lines and seams. Once the design of the garment has been ‘sketched’ in 3D, he transfers these lines from the mannequin to the grids on the paper pattern, using the real measurements of the customer. This helps transform the base pattern to the desired design.
From here, it is essential to create a prototype using a simple cotton fabric called muslin. The prototype is fitted on the customer to assess and make adjustments, if necessary. As Estanislao confesses, he didn’t always use muslin prototypes. He used to think it was a waste of time and went straight to work on the actual fabrics. These ‘small tweaks’ sometimes required cutting the fabric again! In order to avoid this, he had to resort to sub-optimal solutions that were time-consuming or required a revision in the design. For over 20 years, he always makes a cotton prototype for every dress he makes, giving him complete control to adjust the pattern or design – without wasting precious fabrics.
The accuracy of his technique minimizes the need for so many corrections. Estanislao shows me some of his prototypes and I can state that, in most cases, the adjustments are a matter of millimeters.
Looking at these results, I wonder why he shares his method. Isn’t he afraid of losing what makes him different? Absolutely, not. First of all, in the fashion world there is a lot of secrecy and it’s a very lonely profession. With his workshops, he has managed to create a small community that is rapidly growing, giving others the skills to create efficiently. It is his hope that thousands of designers will offer made-to-measure garments to their customers, creating a new inclusive category of fashion that is available to everyone, at an accessible price.
For Estanislao, his method is his legacy and he would find it very selfish not to share it. Thanks to his workshops, he has re-discovered his passion for sewing. Secondly, the method is only one aspect of his work. His value lies in his style, technique, customer service and know-how. This cannot be copied.
Through his workshop have passed very different profiles of professionals. Mainly, they are designers who have small collections. They are also designers and patternmakers from fashion houses who want to make dresses for their best customers, including customers that have changed in size over the years. We also can find in his workshop designers and pattern-makers from large production houses who, despite working with industrial processes, need to create custom sizes, or revise the shape of the commercial sizes they normally use, for a new profile of customer.
The customer as the bedrock of design
Eometric is a clear example of how made-to-measure tailored design is superior to the standardized design that still dominates so many fields, from fashion to web design. No two customers are the same, there are no perfect sizes. We all change over time. We are all “imperfect”… unique.
The approach based on the standard customer has been imposed to date on the basis that it is faster, more practical and more efficient. Through Eometric, Estanislao shows us that reality is the opposite. Designing from scratch, taking each customer as a base, is the best system to obtain an optimal result, adapted to each customer, without the need to waste time and resources.